“Bakarkhani” at one time held a special place as a delicacy among the people of Dhaka during the Mughal period. This tradition has continued in old Dhaka over the years. When we think of bakeries today, we often associate them with modern food products. But how new are these really? Let’s take a closer look at some bakeries that have created a tradition in Dhaka!
The story we will tell here revolves around the biscuits from the old bakeries of Dhaka. In this regard, this might be worth mentioning that
It’s worth mentioning that Dhaka’s first imported goods store, GN Cincor & Sons, which opened in 1857 during the Sipahi Mutiny, sold biscuits among other things. This clearly means that biscuits were already on the food list for Dhaka residents since the mid-nineteenth century.
If we look back at the purchase habits of a typical middle-class family in Dhaka during the 1990s for bakery items, we would notice a stark difference compared to today. Modern-day bakery items in Dhaka are unmatched in taste, aroma, and variety. They are not merely food products but have evolved into an industry with unique shapes, smells, colors, and preparation methods using modern technology. The combination of bakery products in modern-day Dhaka can be seen in the trendy coffee shops where youngsters enjoy spending time with a cup of coffee alongside brownies, cheesecakes, or croissants.
The availability of bakery products has significantly increased over time, ranging from homemade preparations to daily rations. Nowadays, there are numerous modern and customized bakeries and popular online bakery shops in Dhaka that cater to a wide variety of bakery products for all occasions. However, these customized products may not fit into everyone’s budget!
But when bakery items first became common in Dhaka, their consumption was not as widespread. The journey of bakery products in Dhaka has been colorful. As mentioned earlier, imported goods shops were established in Dhaka in the mid-nineteenth century, and biscuits were among the products sold. However, evidence of people consuming biscuits in India can be found in the writings of various historians. The bakery products that initially arrived in the region through the Mughals and Europeans spread widely in the city of Dhaka.
In 1660, the renowned French doctor and traveler Francois Bernier reported seeing European sailors being supplied with cheap biscuits in Bengal. This was a common sight in Bengal during that time. The production of biscuits in Bengal started in the seventeenth century. The Dutch brought their ship’s biscuits, and eventually, modern biscuits appeared in the hands of the British. The French popularized biscuits in Calcutta.
In the latter half of the 19th century, Europeans, Muslims, and lower-caste Hindus began setting up bakeries and making biscuits. In 1841, David Willon established a hotel-cum-bakery in Old Court Street, Calcutta, named Auckland Hotel. A few years later, in 1850, a person from Wales, Great Britain, came to Dhaka and established Prince of Wales Bakery, known as the oldest bakery in Dhaka.
The bakery scene in Dhaka has flourished over time, producing various types of biscuits. In the 1980s or 1990s, the variety of bakery items was quite limited, consisting mostly of some “traditional” cakes, biscuits, patties. Some of which were reserved only for serving to guests alongside tea. Looking back on those days, were these bakery items any less unique? Not at all!
By the 1980s and 1990s, Dhaka’s residents had become used to visiting their favorite local stores to get bakery items. Names like Yusuf Confectionery, Swiss Bakery, and Decent Pastry Shop were associated with the childhood of the “millennial” generation. Anand or Prince Bakery was also well-known. Even though they were confectioneries, for many, these bakeries now represent cherished emotions!
Reminiscing from my childhood memories, a simple square-shaped cake adorned with colorful flowers from Anand Confectionery at a birthday party has delighted us and our party guests throughout the years. Although the tastes of millennials have changed today, the memories of these simple pleasures remain everlasting!
As we go down memory lane of Dhaka’s old town bakeries that started selling wonderful cakes and bakes to the city’s population, we need to acknowledge the emotional connections that bind these bakeries to the people’s hearts. Each of these bakeries has a unique backstory.
Dhaka’s Oldest Bakery: Prince of Wales
One of the most iconic establishments in Dhaka’s bakery scene is the Prince of Wales Bakery. Established in 1850 by a person from Wales, this revered bakery holds a special place in the city’s history. It is known for crafting Dhaka’s first wedding cake and Christmas cake, becoming synonymous with festive celebrations. Today, it stands as a testament to the enduring tradition of bakery biscuits in Dhaka, preserving the essence of time with every freshly baked delicacy.
Anand Confectionery
With a history spanning over 110 years, Anand Confectionery is a true relic of the past. Founded by Chan Mia, who mastered his craft in an English bakery, this bakery began by selling bread and biscuits to the locals. Through the years, Anand Confectionery has remained true to its traditional flavors, offering a nostalgic taste that evokes memories of simpler times and joyous moments shared with loved ones.
Yusuf Confectionery
No exploration of Dhaka’s bakery tradition would be complete without mentioning Yusuf Confectionery. Established in 1939 by Mohammad Yusuf, this bakery has become intertwined with the emotional fabric of the city. Each baked good carries the imprint of love, togetherness, and cherished memories. From family gatherings to farewell celebrations, Yusuf Confectionery’s treats have brought comfort and joy to countless individuals, leaving an unforgettable mark on their hearts.
Besides, the residents of Old Dhaka all have their favorite local bakery shops, which have been in business for years. Descent from Switzerland or Collection from Olympia—all have not passed the cycle of time. Dhaka’s people’s taste buds have passed the strangest path! But not all journeys are tiring, some are satisfying!
